Showing posts with label Richard Boccato. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Richard Boccato. Show all posts

Thursday, March 24, 2011

American Trilogy is What We're Drinking on UMAMIMART

American Trilogy
There is nothing like an expertly crafted Old Fashioned-style cocktail to help you navigate the rapidly changing weather of late March. Since, it is not quite Gin Rickey weather and too warm for a Hot Toddy, a solid whiskey cocktail is just what the Doctor ordered. Now let’s take it to the next level in flavor, taste, and execution. Let me introduce you to the American Trilogy.

The American Trilogy is a cocktail created by barmen extraordinaire Richard Boccato and Michael McIlroy in 2007 at New York’s Little Branch. Trilogy channels the recipe for the old fashioned (spirit, sugar, bitters) and uses two base spirits instead of one. The clever combination unites two classic American liquors and a possible mystery ingredient that create a unique flavor that sets the cocktail apart from other old fashioned derivatives. E pluribus unum!

Read the rest of Fredo's post on UMAMIMART.com

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Barfly's Beat: PKNY - Eagerly awaited NY Tiki Bar opens


I arrived early for the Painkiller "friends and family" opening. Graffiti artist NOC (of Style Wars fame) was still putting the finishing touches to the graffiti mural covering the store gate. Giuseppe Gonzalez, the beaming new proprietor, was outside enjoying the proverbial calm before the storn. That storm bearing down on his new little Tiki Bar would be a tidal wave of bartenders, cocktailians, bloggers, and others in town for the Japanese Cocktail Technique seminar that wrapped up earlier at the Hiro Ballroom.

Giuseppe let us in early and we took the "dug out" seats which in my opinion are always the best seats in the house.  This gave us time to catch up a bit with out hosts before the madness began. Richie Boccato and Giuseppe Gonzalez, of Dutch Kills in Long Island City, have collaborated with business partners to open a new generation of Tiki Bar.  As mentioned in our Tiki's Revenge post last winter, Painkiller isn't your typical kitschy tourist trap with badly made drinks. Inspired by New York's gritty 1970s and the drinks culture made famous by Donn the Beachcomber, Trader Vic, and most recently Jeff Beachbum Berry, PKNY makes serious cocktails but does not take itself too seriously. Graffiti murals fit in side by side with bamboo covered walls and comfy red booths.

Giuseppe addressed the growing crowd as his partner Richie prepared the industrial strength blenders for service.

"Come on you are all family - call it out." 

(silence)

"Ok, Mai Tais for everyone!"

(applause from crowd)

The Mai Tai and a Zombie
Three drinks were served and Brooklyn Lager beer. The signature Painkiller, a Zombie served in a Fu Man Chu style tiki mug, and the original Mai Tai. Besides the three featured drinks, there is no formal cocktail menu but rather genres of drinks including, Zombies, Tiki Flights, Swizzles, Daiquiris, Frozens,  a PKNY's (bartender's) Choice, a mini scorpion bowl called the "Cradle of Life", and the something called "The Bastards." This philosphy does not keep the menu stale and let's the barkeeper create bespoke or modified recipes based upon the availability of ingredients.

As the old East Side Company space swelled to capacity with a whose who of mixology talent and favorite regulars, we threw down the ice cold Tiki drinks as the temperature reached tropic proportions. New friends were made, old flames were cursed, and shots in "skull" shot glasses were slammed. An hour and half later I had to give up the hard sought real estate of the dug out and make our way into the fresh cool air. Painkiller was off to a momentous start!

PKNY formally opens on Friday May 7th at 6pm. I suggest you get their early and be prepared for scorpion bowls! I'll be having a Bermuda Swizzle!

49 Essex Street
Chinatown, NYC

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Tiki's Revenge

by Fredo

The First Wave
The first wave of the Tiki revival hit New York ten years ago with the opening of bars like Zombie Hut (Brooklyn), Otto's Shrunken Head (14th Street), the Lei Bar in Niagra's basement (Ave A),the clubby Tiki Room (Flatiron), and the kitsch 1950s Polynesian themed Waikiki Wally's (East Village). These places were heavy on retro kitsch factor and gimmicks. The worst offender was the Tiki Room, an awful nightclub in the Flatiron district that catered to the B&T. This place had wide screen HDTVs over the bar and their cocktail program was closer to a Spring Break bar than the Tonga Room. In our opinion, they were straight up poseurs more interested in capitalizing on a trend than paying attention to the history and craftsmanship of the genre. Other bars like Otto's Shrunken Head and Zombie Hut got the ambiance and inspiration right when they first opened. It seemed like they were taking pages out of the Trader Vic's play book circa 1956. Unfortunately, the same attention to detail and quality was lost at the bar. The main criticism of the first wave is the lack of fresh ingredients, proportioned pouring, and artisanal touch that has come to typify the new generation of top cocktail bars. However, in all fairness, they were not all mediocre drinks and sugary hang overs. I do thank them for putting Tiki back on the radar after forty years in the vault.

The Desert Island
In recent years, there have been some gems among the coal. A disciple of Tiki, Brian Miller of Death & Company and Joe Swifka of Elettaria preached the gospel of Don the Beachcomber in his classics. Miller slayed notions of the genre's fad with reinterpretations of the classic island cocktails. My favorite being a Gin version of the Zombie called the Winchester. This concotion stays true to the Zombie formula but uses three types of gin in lieu of rum. A Swifka original is the Black Pearl, which is Tiki-fied old fashioned using Cruzan Black Strap rum in addition Old Forester Bourbon as the base spirits. This proved Tiki was not pigeon holed. Quality ingredients and creativity kept the genra alive in the late-2000s when the trend and flavor of the month establishments like the Tiki Room and Waikiki Wally's were washed away. Thank the Tiki Gods for Elettaria's Tiki Mondays!

Tiki's Revenge
Once again the trade winds are guiding us to the Forbidden Island, so queue the Les Baxter but also add Desi Arnaz to the mix. This time around prepare for cocktails made correctly! The wave is moving from the Pacific Coast to the Atlantic. In San Francisco, Smuggler's Cove which opened in December 2009, has 70 plus cocktails on their menu and top talent from West Coast bar scene rolling the drinks. In New York, Painkiller is under construction in the Lower East Side. The noticeable differences with these bars is they draw their inspiration from the Caribbean in addition to the South Seas. They should really be called Rum Bars in the tradition of Trailer Happiness in London. It is clear that the Rum Revolution illustrated in Pete Wells New York Times article is in full swing.

Dutch Kills owner Richard Boccato and award winning bartender Giuseppe Gonzalez should have Painkiller open by the Ides of March but this won't be another Trader Vic doppelganger. I'm expecting something out of Mean Streets. According to Eater, Boccato says:
"Since the team is planning to blend 1970s New York culture and 1940s tiki culture, this may just be the best-ever tiki bar. Even the address is cool."
That cool address is the former East Side Company space on Essex and Grand. Expect freshly squeezed juice, an ice program par excellence, lots of falernum, private reserve rums,the classics made to perfection, as well as inventive cocktails and punches.

So until you can venture to PK NY to try the namesake, enjoy one of the British Virgin Island's most famous drinks:

The Painkiller
4 parts fresh pineapple juice
1 part cream of coconut
1 part fresh orange juice
2 oz Rum (we recommend Smith & Cross Jamaican pot stilled rum)
touch of fresh grated nutmeg

Stir the juices and creme in bar glass, then add rum, stir again. Fill goblet with crushed ice, serve the mixture, and top off with dusting of fresh nutmeg.

PAINKILLER
49 Essex St
New York, NY
















(Photos of PK NY courtesy of Giuseppe Gonzalez)